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In vino veritas

Ritratto di Lady Pasticella
Inviato da Lady Pasticella il Sab, 06/09/2014 - 02:28

A casa mia governava mio padre che, democraticamente, imponeva la sua visione della vita: al vino si aggiunge la gassosa.
A tavola vigeva perciò, il principio di uguaglianza vinicola: tutti i vini, scadenti o pregiati, avevano pari dignità e sapore. Quel mix gassato, infatti, aveva sempre lo stesso sapore che, confesso, il mio gusto adolescenziale apprezzava molto, soprattutto per bollicine e dolcezza. Poi ci fu l’iniziazione
ai vini seri e la mistifico-adulterazione che si operava a casa mia, si manifestò: il vino di mio padre era un bluff: la gassosa copriva il brutto sapore del vino scadente. Si manifestò anche un altro bluff: mio padre spacciava come verità universali, delle assurde convinzioni personali, che, come la gassosa, coprivano la sostanza fumosa delle sue conoscenze… ma, soprattutto, di vini, non capiva un’etilica mazza.
Disintossicata dalla gassosa, andai alla ricerca delle verità assolute per il raggiungimento del nirvana e, quale miglior maestro di un guru sommelier per liberarmi della zavorra di un Karma annacquato?
Il maestro mi deliziava con il teatrino del saggio esperto. Il rituale si ripeteva con asfissiante precisione: circoncisione della carta sulla bocca della bottiglia, penetrazione del cavatappi, piccolo sforzo per tirarlo fuori, mescita del vino nel balloon, leggera ondulazione del bicchiere, l’avvicinare lo stesso al naso e infine, l’appoggio alle labbra per un micro sorso che manco fosse veleno. Seguiva la declamazione del monologo all’unica spettatrice, io, adorante e attonita per l’intensità dell’interpretazione e in attesa di quelle ubriacanti parole: rotondo, fruttato, abboccato, tannico…
Credevo si riferisse a me, al mio corpo sinuoso (in effetti, un po’ rotondo), al mio profumo, al fatto che avessi “abboccato” alle sue performance. E quando tutto sensuale, mi diceva: “tannico” io mi perdevo in fantasie erotiche, pensando intendesse una qualche ramificazione estrema del sesso tantrico.
Misi fine agli spettacoli quando capii che, certi uomini, saranno anche bravi sommelier, ma come persone… sanno di tappo e, come per i vini, non c’è etichetta che ci avverta. Troppo impegnati nella contemplazione del colore puro, trascurano le svariate, prismatiche sfumature che ravvivano la piatta e uniforme perfezione. Troppo presi dall’analisi del retrogusto, si perdono l’emozione del gustare la bontà dei sapori che ti danno un piacere immediato, facendoti chiudere gli occhi per perderti in una gustosa estasi emotiva.
Speziata ma allappata da tanta eno-sapienza, ho interrotto il mio percorso verso la botte della conoscenza assoluta e mi sono data alla damigiana della verità relativa, frequentando un guru casereccio. Al ristorante chiedeva sempre il vino della casa, quello che costava meno, e se lo invitavo a cena, comprava una bottiglia al supermercato più vicino. Niente spettacolo, nessun monologo: apriva la bottiglia stando seduto, con poche mosse. Quando portava il bicchiere alla bocca, tracannava in un unico macro sorso, in modo tanto veloce che le papille gustative non facevano in tempo ad intingersi che già era tutto giù, in fondo al gargarozzo. In realtà, il suo era un approccio primitivo, non beveva per appagare il gusto ma per soddisfare una qualche forma di sete primordiale. Non era male, ma non sapeva perdersi dietro quelle futilità indispensabili ad alzare di un po’, oltre al tasso alcolico, il livello di sopportazione del vivere quotidiano rendendolo più brillo e leggero.
Altri incontri hanno arricchito il bouquet delle mie esperienze e mi sono persuasa della validità dell’antica scuola di pensiero che invitava a cercare la verità nei fondi delle anfore, piuttosto che nei testi sacri e/o profani di pensatori asceti e magari anche astemi. In vino veritas: ci offre quella trasparente prospettiva dalla quale poter percepire aspetti più sfumati del carattere umano. Questo corposo siero, ci farà anche avere gambe e punti di vista oscillanti, ma è pur sempre una ferma verità.

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